Kendal is one of those towns that visitors tend to drive straight through. (Sorry, Kendal, but there it is!). They are heading for Windermere or Ambleside and barely glance at the exit. That is a mistake that is well worth correcting. Tucked into the valley of the River Kent, this gorgeous Cumbrian market town is worth a visit in its own right. Its pale limestone buildings, winding yards, and rich history make it a lovely day trip if you are in the vicinity. Kendal is not the Lake District, but it sits on its very doorstep. It earns its nickname, the ‘Auld Grey Town’, not through dullness but through the distinctive local stone that gives every street its quiet, timeless character.
At A Glance: Kendal
| Category | Information |
|---|---|
| Location | Cumbria, South Lakeland |
| Postcode (Town Centre) | LA9 4DQ |
| Best Known For | Kendal Mint Cake, the castle, and the museum |
| Good For | Families, history lovers, walkers, foodies |
| Nearest Train Station | Kendal (on the Windermere branch line) |
| By Road | Junction 36 of the M6, approximately 8 miles |
| Parking | Westmorland Shopping Centre (627 spaces) |
| Market Days | Wednesday and Saturday |
The Yards: A Town Within a Town
One of Kendal’s most distinctive features is its system of yards. These are narrow alleyways that cut between the main streets. They were once home to cottage industries, particularly the woollen trade that made Kendal prosperous in the medieval period. Today, many of the yards house independent shops, cafes, and galleries. Blackhall Yard is a particularly good example. It is a creative hub filled with artisan traders. Wandering the yards gives a sense of the town’s history. It is also a good way to avoid the main shopping streets if you prefer a quieter route.
Kendal’s association with the cloth trade goes back centuries. ‘Kendal Green’ was a coarse, dyed fabric that was traded across England. Shakespeare even referenced it in ‘Henry IV, Part I’, which gives some sense of how far the town’s reputation (and fabric) had spread.
Kendal Castle
The ruined castle that overlooks the town from Castle Hill is one of the most atmospheric spots in southern Cumbria. It dates from around the twelfth century. The castle is best known as the birthplace of Katherine Parr, the sixth and final wife of Henry VIII. Imagine your main legacy boiled down to one word: survived. Whether that association adds romance or melancholy to the ruins rather depends on your outlook on life.
The climb to the top takes around ten minutes from the town centre. The views from the hilltop are genuinely excellent. On a clear day, you can see across the rooftops of the town to the fells beyond. Entry to the castle grounds is free. There are no facilities on site, so bring water if the weather is warm.
Kendal Museum
One of the oldest museums in the country, Kendal Museum has displays covering natural history, geology, and the archaeology of the local area. It also has an Alfred Wainwright connection. The celebrated fell-walker and author served as honorary curator here for many years. He was also the main proponent of the Coast to Coast Walk footpath still in use today. For fans of his guidebooks, that alone makes it worth a visit. The museum is compact but well-presented, and it will occupy an hour or two comfortably.
Brewery Arts Centre
Kendal’s arts scene punches well above its weight. The Brewery Arts Centre is the main reason why. Housed in a converted Victorian brewery on Highgate, it hosts live music, theatre, cinema, comedy, and a popular bar and restaurant. The bar and restaurant are rather refreshingly and unpretensiously named ‘the bar and restaurant’. It also stages the Kendal Mountain Festival each November, one of the most respected outdoor and adventure film festivals in the world. If your visit coincides with any events, it is well worth booking tickets in advance.
Mint Cake and Local Food
No article about Kendal would be complete without mention of Kendal Mint Cake. It is not a cake. It is a dense, sugary confection flavoured with peppermint which has sustained mountaineers for generations. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay carried it to the summit of Everest in 1953 (beat that Monster Energy!). You can buy it in almost every shop in town. The Romney’s and Quiggin’s brands are the best known, and both are still made locally. I am sure 9 out of 10 dentists do not recommend it, and the 10th must be insane. It is, however, melt-in-your-mouth delicious.
Beyond mint cake, Kendal has a good range of independent cafes and restaurants. The weekly market on Wednesday and Saturday brings local producers into the town centre. It is a good place to pick up Cumbrian cheese, bread, and seasonal produce.
Scout Scar
[See the top photo]. For those who want a walk with a view, Scout Scar is the obvious choice. The limestone escarpment sits just to the west of the town. The walk from Kendal town centre takes around 45 minutes each way. The ridge offers sweeping views over the Lyth Valley and across to the Lakeland fells. It is not a strenuous walk, but it is uneven underfoot in places. Appropriate footwear is advisable.
Useful Information
| Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Getting There by Train | Trains run from Oxenholme (West Coast Mainline) to Kendal. Oxenholme is served by trains from London Euston, Manchester, and Glasgow. |
| Getting There by Car | Leave the M6 at Junction 36. Follow the A590 and then the A6 into Kendal town centre. |
| Parking | Westmorland Shopping Centre multi-storey is the most central option. Charges range from approximately £1.70 to £6.60. |
| Kendal Castle | Open access, free of charge, all year round. |
| Kendal Museum | Check opening times and admission fees at kendalmuseum.org.uk before visiting. |
| Brewery Arts Centre | 122A Highgate, Kendal, LA9 4HE. Box office and event listings at breweryarts.co.uk |
| Kendal Market | Wednesday and Saturday in the Market Place. |
| Scout Scar | Access from Underbarrow Road. Free parking near the start of the trail. |
| Accessibility | The town centre is reasonably flat. The castle and Scout Scar involve uneven ground and gradients. |
| Best Time to Visit | Spring and early summer for walking. November for the Kendal Mountain Festival. |
Final Thoughts
Kendal does not sing its own praises nearly enough. That is part of its appeal. It is a working market town with genuine history, good food, and an arts scene that most larger towns would envy. The Lake District is on its doorstep, but Kendal deserves at least a full day of your time before you head for the hills. The yards, the castle, the mint cake, and the views from Scout Scar make for a satisfying and varied day out. If you have been overlooking Kendal on your way elsewhere, it is time to stop the car (and brush your teeth afterwards).
