There are villages in the Lake District that are pretty, and then there is Grasmere. This small settlement in the central fells occupies a valley so perfectly proportioned that William Wordsworth, called it “the most loveliest spot that man hath found”. He was not prone to understatement (or great at grammar*), but in this case the description holds. Grasmere is surrounded on all sides by fells and reflected in the calm surface of its own lake. The village is compact, unhurried, and entirely too excited about gingerbread. It draws visitors in great numbers, particularly in summer. The trick is to arrive early, walk the quieter paths, and take your time with everything else.
* I apologise for dissing Wordsworth. I am a philistine and a ne’er-do-well, both.
At A Glance: Grasmere
| Category | Information |
|---|---|
| Location | Central Lake District, Cumbria |
| Postcode (Village Centre) | LA22 9SW |
| Best Known For | Wordsworth, Dove Cottage, and Grasmere Gingerbread |
| Good For | Families, walkers, literary enthusiasts, couples |
| Nearest Train Station | Windermere (then bus 555 or 599) |
| By Road | A591 between Ambleside and Keswick |
| Parking | Red Bank Road Car Park and Broadgate Meadow Car Park |
| Market/Events | Grasmere Sports Day (August); Lake Artists Summer Exhibition (July to September) |
Dove Cottage and the Wordsworth Connection
Grasmere’s most famous address is Dove Cottage, the small whitewashed house on the edge of the village where William Wordsworth lived from 1799 to 1808. He moved here with his sister Dorothy, whose journals from the period are among the finest prose accounts of Lake District life ever written. It was here that Wordsworth composed some of his best-known poems. The cottage has been preserved with considerable care and feels genuinely close to its original state. Rooms are small and low-ceilinged, while the garden is steep and productive.
The adjacent Wordsworth Museum is well worth your time. It holds one of the most significant collections of Romantic-period manuscripts in the country. The museum was recently refurbished and now includes displays that should engage visitors who are not particularly interested in poetry. There is also an activity space for younger visitors. Booking ahead is advisable, especially in school holidays.
Wordsworth’s presence does not end at Dove Cottage. He is buried in the churchyard of St Oswald’s Church in the village centre, alongside his wife Mary, his sister Dorothy, and several of his children. The church itself dates from the thirteenth century. It is a peaceful place to spend a few minutes, even if you only came for the gingerbread.
Grasmere Gingerbread
The Grasmere Gingerbread Shop sits in a former village school next to St Oswald’s churchyard. It is a very small building with a very large reputation. Sarah Nelson invented her gingerbread recipe here in 1854. The original handwritten recipe is kept in a bank safe somewhere in the Lake District and has never been published. The gingerbread itself is unlike anything described by its name elsewhere. It is a dense, spiced slab that sits somewhere between a biscuit and a cake. It is sold by the piece and wrapped in paper. The queue outside the shop is a reliable measure of its appeal.
The shop also sells rum butter, fudge, and Kendal Mint Cake. It is worth noting that the gingerbread is baked fresh each day. If you arrive late in the afternoon, it may sell out.
The Lake
Grasmere Lake lies a short walk from the village centre to the south-west. It is one of the smaller lakes in the national park, just over a mile long. What it lacks in scale it makes up for in atmosphere. There are no motorboats on the water. The surface is frequently calm enough to give clear reflections of the surrounding fells. A circular walk around the lake takes approximately an hour at a gentle pace and is suitable for most abilities. The path is mostly flat and well-maintained.
From March to November, you can hire rowing boats at Faeryland Grasmere on the shore. It is a simple and relaxing way to spend an hour. The small wooded island at the centre of the lake, where Wordsworth and Dorothy once picnicked, is private. There will be no ‘wandering lonely as a cloud’ on private land, please!
Easedale Tarn and the Walks
Grasmere sits at the start of several excellent walks. The most popular leads up to Easedale Tarn, a high mountain lake surrounded by crags. The path climbs steadily alongside Sour Milk Ghyll (who named that?!), a waterfall that is particularly dramatic after rain. The round trip takes around two to three hours and is moderately demanding. The tarn at the top is a rewarding destination for a rest and, for the brave, a swim.
For a shorter option, the walk up to Alcock Tarn takes around 45 minutes from the village. The views over Grasmere lake and the surrounding fells from the top are excellent. The ascent is steep in places but not technical.
Those who prefer a level route should stick to the lake circuit or the path along the River Rothay towards Rydal Water. The latter passes through woodland and along a lakeshore and is particularly pleasant in autumn.
Heaton Cooper Studio
The Heaton Cooper Studio has been part of Grasmere since Alfred Heaton Cooper established it in 1905. He painted the Lake District landscapes in watercolour with an accuracy and feeling that gave his work lasting appeal. The studio now represents three generations of the family. It functions as a gallery, an art materials shop, and a changing exhibition space for local and visiting artists. It is a calm and unpretentious place. Even if you are not looking to buy, it is a worthwhile stop on a rainy afternoon.
Food and Drink
Grasmere punches well above its size when it comes to eating. The Jumble Room on Langdale Road is one of the most consistently praised restaurants in the Lake District. It is eclectic in style and serious about its food. Booking is essential. For something more casual, Lucia’s Coffee and Bakehouse offers good coffee and excellent baking. Tweedies Bar at the Dale Lodge Hotel has a fine selection of real ales and a beer garden that fills quickly on warm evenings.
Useful Information
| Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Getting There by Train | Take the branch line from Oxenholme to Windermere. Then take the 555 or 599 bus service to Grasmere. |
| Getting There by Bus | The 555 runs from Kendal and Lancaster to Keswick via Grasmere. The 599 runs from Bowness and Windermere. |
| Getting There by Car | Grasmere is on the A591 between Ambleside (5 miles) and Keswick (14 miles). |
| Parking | Red Bank Road Car Park (77 spaces) and Broadgate Meadow Car Park (81 spaces). Both are pay and display, 8am to 8pm daily. |
| Dove Cottage and Wordsworth Museum | wordsworth.org.uk. Booking ahead is recommended. |
| Grasmere Gingerbread Shop | grasmeregingerbread.co.uk. Church Cottage, next to St Oswald’s Church. |
| Heaton Cooper Studio | heatoncooper.co.uk. Check for current exhibition details. |
| Faeryland Boat Hire | Open March to November. Rowing boats for up to four people. |
| Grasmere Sports Day | Held each August. Cumberland wrestling, fell racing, and hound trails. |
| Accessibility | The village centre is largely flat. The lake circuit path is suitable for most abilities. Easedale Tarn and Alcock Tarn involve steep and uneven terrain. |
| Best Time to Visit | Early morning in summer to avoid crowds. Spring for daffodils at nearby Dora’s Field. |
Final Thoughts
Grasmere earns its reputation honestly. The scenery is as good as, if not better than, anywhere in England. The gingerbread is genuinely worth queuing for. The Wordsworth connections run deep, but you do not need to be a poetry enthusiast to appreciate the cottage or the churchyard.
The walks are varied enough to suit any level of fitness. If there is a fault, it is popularity. The village fills up quickly on fine summer days. Arriving before ten in the morning makes a considerable difference. Come early, walk further than most people bother to, and you will understand exactly what Wordsworth meant.
